Fiebing's Water-Based Stain Review

This stain would be compatible with just about any cresting paint if you seal the stain in before cresting. Duco cement will work with the stain also.

Yes, it will stain the wood of the bow as well.

This a good deep penetrating dye that is used (intended for) leather but works well on wood. I brush on with foam brush wipe with steel wool & repeat. I have used varnish and shellac over it with no trouble & have used it on spruce, larch and mahogany arrows. I see no reason it would not work with your bow.

I have used both oil and water based sealer. I only will use water based from this point on due to clean-up and the ease of use.

water based. depends on the esired effect and base coat though. I use leather dye and gel stains for a natural redish wood grain look, then use a water based polyurethane coat, either satin, gloss, or high gloss. Paints, laquers and enamels will also benefit from a water based sealent. It weighs less, is affordable, easy to find, and does no interupt the other coatings. If you wana get fancy use the floor sealant by minwax or Rustoleum, it does not produce as many bubbles and does not require sanding in between applications. Furthermore it dries in one hour and can get another coat!

I like water based myself

A small lint free rag or brush can be used to apply the stain then wait a minute and then wipe the access stain off. To get the correct shade you may have to apply a second coat of stain to the shaft. After it dries follow up with a sealer coat.

Stain then seal.  The sealant will keep the stain protected.  If you seal, then stain, you will not get good results.  Stain is not like paint, it works by penetrating the wood.

I stained the shafts prior to applying a few coats of lacquer. I found it contained a lot of pigment but i added two coats of stain anyway. It is water based and some straightening of the shafts was needed after applying and drying. Wait at least an hr before applying lacquer or blushing will occur. These colors are vivid but the grain is still visible, good stuff. Sent from my iPhone

I stained without sealing and then put three coats of marine varnish over[image: Inline image 1]

you should stain then seal the shaft

stain then seal

Lightly sand the bare wood shaft with fine sandpaper or Scotchbrite© , then stain. Let dry overnight in a warm area. Your sealing coat of finish will be applied over the stained shaft. For me, I do that light sand again. Water based stains and finish will raise the wood grain a little. The sanding makes them smooth. If you are going to apply a painted crown to the nock end of the shaft, do not stain there. Apply your sealing coat over that area also, to prevent the wood from showing through your painted crown.

I stain then seal       Sent from Yahoo! Mail on V.I.K.I. MK II Windows 8

The idea is for the stain to penetrate the wood of the shaft. You should stain first then seal. If you seal first you will inhibit the stain's ability to penetrate the wood.

It is highly recommended to seal your arrow to protect it from wear and tear by targets and mother nature.

It will be some of the darkest we can offer for a black. Look at putting a satin finish over it to really deepen the color.

You will not have any problems with this stain with any sealer as long as you let the stain fully dry overnight before you put the sealer on.

Yes, they will work with the gasket lacquer.

It is recommend that you use either Bohning or 3Rivers products. They are made to work with each other and that will yield the best results.

Yes, we still recommend that you do not use cap wraps.