Zwickey Broadheads heard the demand from bowhunters everywhere for a new broadhead that penetrates deeply and produces impressive wound channels without costing more than the arrows they are going on. The No Mercy broadhead delivers with its long and narrow design and double bevel and single bevel options. ...read more
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Easy Sharpening
Reasonably priced and easy to sharpen. Works as expected with my 2219 Easton shafts and 64# recurve.
Good broadhead, has to be sharpened.
Bought these for fall deer season. Seem to be well built. Weight may be a few grains off. Very similar to the eskimos, almost the same broadhead. Both shoot the same. You can combine them in your quiver and you would never know it!
How to prepare to sharpen No Mercy broadhead
I have not got to hunt with these yet, but as for sharpening, I would recommend marking them on all bevel edges with a black magic marker and lightly grind them with an electric hand held grinder on a table top. 1. Screw the broadhead into a cut off piece of arrow with insert so it is short and manageable. 2. Lay the grinder upside down and hold it steady with one hand. Only… read more grind lightly, grinding cutting edge facing AWAY from you. You will be laying the broadhead on the flat side of the grinding disc, not the edge. (see photos) 3. Try to lean the broadhead where the blade and ferule lightly touch the grinder AT THE SAME TIME to maintain bevel angle. I count about 8 seconds of light grinding per side of each bevel. Alternate grinding all four sides at intervals until marker is gone. 4. You don't want to grind too long as the grind creates a lot of friction heat than can change the temper of the metal. The goal is to slowly shape the bevel evenly all along its length and slightly widen the bevel. 5. A consistent bevel angle that lines up with the ferule is critical for sharpening. 6. A wider even bevel allows for more consistent sharpening and lesser bevel angle allows for a sharper edge. All the steps above are to PREPARE the broadhead for sharpening. Refer to Youtube for best methods to sharpen.
Be prepared to spend hours sharpening.
Seem to be well built, but they are the devil to get truly sharp. They come dull as an IT convention.
Accurate but comes with shoddy grind
Upon unboxing, the grind was really bad. Dents in the edge, rough spots, dull spots, bent corners. Looking at the edge length-wise, 2 of the 3 broadheads have curved edged from vertical center. After a lot of grinding and sharpening myself, I was able to make it a little better. Still, disappointed with manufacturing. Out of the box they did shoot darn close to field points, though.
Ready to put them to work! Prompt shipping, all fly well
Ready to put them to work!
Great Value
These broadheads are great for the money...they're cheap, fly great, and rip through my targets way better than my NAP thunderheads did. I have a feeling the deer won't like them though... Don't know why people found them hard to sharpen...if you know what you're doing, it's goes pretty quick.
Worth the effort
Needed a new set of heads for upcoming deer season and figured I would give the Single Bevel a try. They were a PAIN to sharpen, the end of the head comes almost into contact with the welded area and it makes sharpening difficult. Unless you have an aggressive file expect this to take upwards of an hour to get each head sharp. Shot a deer with one this season and was very impressed… read more by both the damage and the consistency in practice.
Can't wait to use them
I haven't had a chance to take a deer with these yet but I like how they fly. I tuned my arrows with a 175 field point so I am using these with 2-5 grain washers. They seem to fly as good as field point. I plan to practice with them more. They have a pretty rough edge to start so it took a little bit to get the edge I wanted. Can't beat these for the price. I'm not one to spend… read more $75 for 3 broadhead when these will cut the same hole.
The Best
These are the hardest hitting heads I have ever used. A lot of guys cry about not being able to sharpen them but they take time to do. Its not a super fast process like every one wants. Its almost like if people don't have an app on their iPhone that sharpens the heads they want to complain or talk down about Zwickey broadheads. Give them a try you will not regret it. I blew right… read more through a doe last season with them like it was nothing.
Yes you should not have an issue there.
They should work for your setup provided you get the right spine arrow. As far as the correct spine, we wold need to know your draw length as well as the type of shaft you want to use (wood, carbon, or aluminum). You can look at our arrow charts http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf . As for books, the two I would recommend are The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook (Item# 7015) and Shooting The Stickbow (Item# 7832)
Extreme FOC is emerging in the traditional world as the "right direction", especially versus the "speed to the exclusion of all else" mentality of the compound archery mindset. However, 175grains is a heavy broad head weight for a 40 lb draw bow. It's not impossible, but you will have to be willing to live with a substantial trajectory arc for your setup. As for spine, most charts don't deal with the numbers you're talking about. Spine is determined by three factors, draw length, draw weight and point weight( four if you foray into the compound world )so we 're lacking critical info to be able to even start a conversation about proper spine. I will say this, you'll need substantial control on the back of the arrow in the form of long enough and angled enough fletching to compensate for that extra heavy point. As for aid, nothing beats experience, I'd try to find a trad archery club to get help from locally first, then I'd use the resource available from the 3 Rivers crowd. I don't have a lot of experience with books , I have G. Fred Asbell's books, I'm sure there are plenty of others that will help as well. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone
I think the best advice is to go through a paper tuning process with a number of different weight points and lengths of arrow. There are sets of field points available that contain many different weights. Stephen H. Phillips
Yes it will make sure you get the two blade sharpener.
Never used that brand of sharpener , but i will tell you what i know about sharpening these broad heads , first clean the flat side as flat as you can ..then take metal of the bevel with whatever system you have until you create a burr , steel it carefully with a quality steel until the burr just comes off . if you continue steeling or sharpening you will just blunt he blade . The point should be sharp but after that the first 15 to 20 mm will not shave hair , Dont worry this part is the bit that splits the bone, the double ferral just does not Sharpen !! The remainder of the blade is what i call the working part ! this will shave hair and cause as much bleed out as you could wish for . Let me know how you get on . Jap Hunter (New Zealand)
No, the "CC" Sharpener is for double bevel sharpening. It will not work for single bevel broadheads. Thanx, Ned
1 3/16" is the cutting diameter.
Diameter 1 3/16 Length. 2 1/2 inches for listed 165 grain Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone
165 LW Z-M, 1.155" diameter, 2.44" edge length. At least, that's the average on mine. YMMV.
These broadheads will come in over weight. They have extra metal on them so that they will be the correct weight after you sharpen them. All of the Zwickey broadheads need to be sharpened before use.
The KME sharpener will work on this broadhead. It will change the bevel angle of the broadhead slightly, though.
It is supposed to be 25 degree. I ended up freehanding it on a file first and finishing on a diamond stone. After the file the edge is wide enough to feel as you sharpen as long as you go slow and easy.
Yes you should not have an issue there.
As long as the Easton Helios has a standard thread count inserts they will fit just fine. If they have a deep six inserts you will need to go with a deep six broadhead.
Unfortunately they do not.
Sold by the 3-pack only.
They should work for your setup provided you get the right spine arrow. As far as the correct spine, we wold need to know your draw length as well as the type of shaft you want to use (wood, carbon, or aluminum). You can look at our arrow charts http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf . As for books, the two I would recommend are The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook (Item# 7015) and Shooting The Stickbow (Item# 7832)
Extreme FOC is emerging in the traditional world as the "right direction", especially versus the "speed to the exclusion of all else" mentality of the compound archery mindset. However, 175grains is a heavy broad head weight for a 40 lb draw bow. It's not impossible, but you will have to be willing to live with a substantial trajectory arc for your setup. As for spine, most charts don't deal with the numbers you're talking about. Spine is determined by three factors, draw length, draw weight and point weight( four if you foray into the compound world )so we 're lacking critical info to be able to even start a conversation about proper spine. I will say this, you'll need substantial control on the back of the arrow in the form of long enough and angled enough fletching to compensate for that extra heavy point. As for aid, nothing beats experience, I'd try to find a trad archery club to get help from locally first, then I'd use the resource available from the 3 Rivers crowd. I don't have a lot of experience with books , I have G. Fred Asbell's books, I'm sure there are plenty of others that will help as well. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone
I think the best advice is to go through a paper tuning process with a number of different weight points and lengths of arrow. There are sets of field points available that contain many different weights. Stephen H. Phillips
No, they are not too heavy. As long as you get the proper arrow spine, they should be fine.
I don't see a grain weight these for these broad heads..but my advice is always with anything new..specially broad heads...use one as a practice tip into a 3d foam target or anything that a braod head can be easily removed from. No fiber bags. But I don't see why not.most deer shot with traditional equipment is done 15 yards or under. I use something very similar and a swear by them now after making the worst shot in my career..lol hope I helped..james Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
No such thing as "too heavy". As long as your arrow spine is sufficient to handle the weight (165 grns) you can shoot them. They'll be slower by a little than the standard 125grn. but it will be made up in better penetration due to increased momentum. Kevin