If you're a bow builder who would like to add extra performance to your bows, this Stabil-Kore™/Speed Tuff core material is the perfect fit! Stabil-Kore™ is a proprietary composite, perfect as a stubstitute for carbon. This lightweight core material gives bow limbs lateral and torsion rigidity. You'll notice increased efficiency, as well as added multi-directional attributes. Stabil-Kore™ reinforces limbs, increases cast, and practically eliminates lateral twisting. This improves in-line recovery and gives you more energy down range. These Stabil-Kore™ strips are sanded on both sides. They can be used with carbon laminations. Each strip measures approx 72" x 2" x .015". ...read more
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I would and will buy this again.
I used this in making a low poundage recurve bow for my wife. It worked great.
Paper cuts
Wear gloves when using this product. it is a strong thin material and caused many "paper cuts" however it was very easy to use and as it was sandwiched into others items was very sand-able
I use one strip when building a hickery backed maple bow but I have read about folks using multiple layers. I like the product and have good luck, just make shure that you wet both sides completely with EA-40
No. It is one 72" piece.
It's one 2"x72" strip.
Unfortunately this would not be able to be used as a final backing on a wood bow of that nature. You could put this on the back and then put a piece of fiberglass over the top but you would have to have some sort of other backing over the top of this strip.
They will fold the strip in half so it will be in a 37" box for shipping
Yes you could put this on the back side of the bow just under the fiberglass. However keep in mind that this strip of carbon is designed for the middle of the bow and is there to help keep the bow from twisting.
Yes it can work in that fashion. My understanding is that if you put it under the backing, you get a quicker bow(5 or 6 more fps?) and more hand-shock, whereas towards the belly you get less hand-shock, I used a stack that looked like this: bo-tuff as backing, 3 parallel laminations as my core, then stabil-kore, then a tapered lamination with clear bo tuff on the belly. I put it on the belly side of the core instead of the back because of its compression and torsion qualities. It worked great, the bow is faster then if it was only wood and fiberglass and it has less hand-shock but I have seen people using it in every possible configuration with success.
This material works to the fullest when used as a core material. I would not recommend this for that situation. You can sand the finish off and apply a runny super glue like lock tite to help reduce the stress on the cracks.
My understanding is the Stable-Kore is designed as an interior lamination to help prevent twisting. I use it as the center lamination in the bows I build. Both sides are unfinished. Adding anything lamination wise to the bow will change the tiller and performance, I would not recommend it. The only approach I know of for your problem is treatment with Loctite 420 and watch them carefully. Probably wisest to retire the bow. Leighton R. Liesner
It would protect the limbs from cracking but it would up the pull poundage significantly. For backing without sending the pull strength through the roof you might try really fine fiberglass like they use for model airplanes. I have NOT tried this myself. It's just my best guess based on what you shared. Use epoxy, not polystyrene resin. Sand the surface only. Wet the cloth with epoxy, and lay it on the limbs. Use a spatula to flatten the cloth well, removing all excess epoxy. Cure it, sand any bumps off, then paint on a smooth epoxy finish coat. It will still up the bow poundage, but not nearly as much as carbon fiber would. Get Outlook for Android< https://aka.ms/ghei36>
It's a personal choice and I haven't done a lot of testing with the Stabil-Kore. I would use one piece layered. I don't believe the effectiveness is reduced when using it with a take down.
In my opinion, there won't be enough difference to notice between one piece and take down.
blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } The deeper into the core the less effective it is. So if your not using clear glass you can get the most from it by placing it directly under the back glass. If your using clear glass thin directly under the veneer. It's effectiveness is not diminished with take down limbs but some limb profiles will see better use from it than others. It's a good product and I use it in my 56" hybrid longbows. Great for vertical and torsional stability. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
I have used it on an one piece long bow and a take down recurve. I only used 1 strip on each have not yet tillered the long bow Just got it shaped up some and rough sanded this week end looks like it didn't change my target weight I was looking for I put it on the back of bow just under the outer Osage laminate full length. That is where I normally put a carbon strip over a bamboo core The take down recurve I have just finished the limbs and starting Monday to work on riser Sent from my iPhone
I prefer the Smooth On Epoxy.
Greg I used my standard epoxy glue which is Smooth On ea-40 and it worked fine.
Usually it it is done with wood and/or carbon.
Approximately 3 to 5 pounds. It varies bow to bow